Day 2

September 6th, 2010

We were out of New York like a shot, speeding on the SeaStreak catamaran ferry to New Jersey.  It moves through the water so fast, the wind almost knocked us over when we went up on deck, and Manhattan was nearly gone by the time we got our cameras out.

It was a stunningly gorgeous day, with piercing blue skies and perfect temperatures. Labor Day weekend may still be the figurive end of summer, but I have heard from several people now that it is no longer the traditional end of summer. Due to earlier school starts, that date has been moved to a less-celebrated, earlier time.  And our experience bore that out.  There were people out and about,  but not nearly what there would have been 20 years ago, especially on such a beautiful day.

So the weather was just one of the things that made today one of the best first days I’ve had on a bike tour.  After the ferry, we leisurely explored the abandoned military installations at Sandy Hook, walked across the beach to put my hand in the Atlantic Ocean (I asked her to be kind to us for the rest of the trip), had lemonades on the Asbury Park boardwalk, rode 88 miles, much of it through the quiet and empty Pine Barrens, had a root beer at a roadside drink stand, and generally had an awesome time.

I had the useful experience of learning what Dennis has felt like on our previous rides together. Since I had always planned all my own routes, I basically have them memorized in my head and I pull them out as I go. But because Dennis planned this trip, there are times where I don’t even have a good idea which direction we’re headed, much less where we are. I think I already started getting used to it, but I wish I had had the experience before so I could have empathized better on our last trip.

Crazy moment of the day: sitting drinking Gatorades outside a grocery store in Whiting, literally seconds after I said “this is a really peaceful grocery store”: BAM!!!  An insane drug-addled old hag nearly uprooted a concrete post as she slammed the back of her SUV into it. Then, she floors the gas, squealing out of the parking spot, careering straight for us!   I was up and running,  but she veered away at the last second, with some help from a curb biting into her rim. What then?  Well, she slowly circled the lot, returned to her original spot, backed in successfully this time, and calmly hobbled into store, happily inhaling a cigarette stuffed in her toothless mouth, while leaving the engine running with her dog inside. Yeah. Insane.

The day proceeded without incident after that, and we stopped at a great campground Dennis booked in the pine forest, Pilgrim Lake.  It may cure me of my natural aversion to private campgrounds. It’s very quiet, intimate, and dark, the people are nice, the lake beautiful in the sunset, and the wood plentiful and quick to burn.  When they learned we were on bikes, they were kind enough to charge a reduced rate of $20, which is a great deal around here, but let me tell you, they would have to have brass balls to actually ask for the $100 they have listed on their price sheet.

2010 Day 0

September 4th, 2010

The Day(s)
Started out nauspisciously as I was dumb enough to miss the Metra commuter train (by 10 seconds) that would take me to Union Station.  Thankfully I was smart enough (or dumb-lucky enough)  that the next train would still hopefully get me there in enough time.  And Dennis was good enough to not get mad at me for adding unnecessary stress to the beginning of the trip.  Ended up making it there on time, and due to our experience and Dennis’s help, had my bike boxed in literally three minutes.

The train ride was uneventful, but about as pleasant as a 20 hour train ride can be.  Taking advantage of the power outlets, used my phone to listen to music, track our route, write this entry, watch a movie ((500) Days of Summer, pretty good), and read half a book (Nights In Rodanthe, intriguingly bad).  Felt like I got a fairly good night’s sleep too.  Not to much to see until we turned south at Albany and followed the Hudson River through the hills.

And then we were in New York! Stepping off the train, had to immediately dodge dripping water, then walk up a broken escalator.  What a craphole of a city this is! Ok, my first impression was fixed when one of the first people we talked to (a woman watching us put our bikes back together) said “fugheddaboutit” several times as part of conversation.  Yeah.  Then had fun riding with the taxis and buses and bikes and pedestrians to our hotel.

For dinner, went to an Italian place next door, where we met up with an old friend,  Ivan.  We hadn’t seen him since, let’s see… Friday?  Yes, we came all the way to New York to have dinner with a guy who sits 8th feet away from me at work. But that was cool (he was in town to see the U.S. Open)

Real ride starts tomorrow, can’t wait!

The People of Amtrak
The Imaginary Friend Guy: on the full train, tells every train employee that “his friend” is coming to take the empty seat next to him.  Even after the train has left the station.  Amazingly, he pulled it off, and had the one empty seat in the whole car.

The Amish:  Amtrak is a bit like jury duty: it’s an opportunity to see people who normally are not.within the range of your social radar.  It makes me realize that even the most broad-minded and inclusive among us probably still have too narrow and self-centered picture of who “Americans” are.   When is the last time a cable news analyst has asked “Health care reform, illegal immigration, bank bailouts: what do the Amish think of that?”

The Indians: There were two entire bogies on this train that could have been picked up from an Indian Railways train that went way off course.  Just part of the Indian affinity for railways? No, because I’d never seen such a concentration of Indians on Amtrak before.  Rather, I think it’s Niagara Falls.  I get the feeling that Niagara Falls is a very prominent North American wonder in the minds of Indians, as if it’s featured in every 4th grader’s geography class.  Or maybe it’s just a convenient place to do a Canadian border crossing for visa renewal. Either way, after the Buffalo stop, those cars were ghost towns.  I was reminded of the latter possibility when the border/immigrations officers came on board (hint: if you tell them you’re an American citizen, they won’t ask for your passport or anything else like they do if you say no.  Yeah, it’s not quite Arizona here yet)

The singing waitress at the breakfast car: “Imma bring you another orange juice, so you better not be nursin’ that one!”

The conversationalists: sharing a booth in the lounge car, two newly-met gentlemen of obviously different backgrounds, talking for hours on subjects ranging from taxes, to Venezuela, to the value of a college education. All with good humor, and like the jurors mentioned above, without rancor.

2010 Bike Tour: Eastern Seaboard

September 3rd, 2010

Hey, it’s time for me to go on my 5th multiweek bike trip. This is the first one not planned by me, instead, my friend Dennis did all the planning and plotting and I get to go along for the ride.  So you can see all the details of the trip at his site:

http://2010ect.wordpress.com

I’m traveling without a computer this time so most updates will come via my phone’s touchscreen keyboard, so that may make me a bit less verbose than usual.  But I’ll attempt to post some updates here when I can.

2009 Chicago Marathon

February 13th, 2010

In 2008, I noticed I had several marathon-running friends. During their training, I gave plenty of unsolicited advice, drawing on my vast experience as a mediocre high-school cross-country runner a decade-and-a-half prior. Eventually I realized that was an insulting position to be giving advice from, so I decided to remedy that slightly and acquire some fresher knowledge and experience by running a 10K. It would be a way to remember what running felt like, to relate in a small way to my friends and their marathon training.

I had done no serious (or even unserious) running for a decade, so I thought I should train a bit before trying a 10K, with the emphasis on “a bit”. Over a three-week period, I went on three runs of about 2 miles apiece. Then on October 4th, a week before the 2008 Chicago Marathon, I measured out a 10K course at a local park, started my watch, and ran it. I think I had a vague hope of breaking 48 minutes, so I was pretty happy when my watch read 44:44 at the end, even if I had to lay on the grass for half an hour before I could hobble home. Later on, I came across the McMillan Running Calculator, punched in that time, and it told me I could run a 3:30:00 marathon. Huh.

Jump ahead six months to late April, where, two days before registration closed, I signed up for the 2009 Chicago Marathon. No, I hadn’t caught the running bug. I hadn’t run a single time since that 10K, and wouldn’t start again until June. Due to the ever-growing marathoning culture I had become familiar with, the marathon had simply become a goal I wanted to check off my list of lifetime achievements. And I thought there would be no better year to do it than 2009: I was about to head out on a month-long, 1500-mile bicycle tour through the desert canyons of the American Southwest. Thirty days filled with six hours per day of intense cardiovascular effort ought to be a good launching point for marathon training.

So two weeks after returning from the bike trip, I started in on Hal Higdon’s 18-week Marathon Training Plan, Intermediate 1. Of course, I was doing nearly everything “wrong”. Everyone (myself included) will tell you that it’s stupid to start into a marathon training program from nothing; ideally I would have been running regularly for at least a year beforehand. On top of that, I was leaping right over the Novice training programs, and going straight to one for experienced marathoners. On top of that, I was training with a goal time (3:30:00) in mind. Everyone will tell you your only goal for your first marathon should be to complete it; thinking about time can lead to failure, and that should wait until at least your second marathon.

I had a good reason for violating these three training rules, but it was because I was violating a broader cultural rule: there would be no second marathon for me. I had no interest in becoming “a runner”. I would be a mere interloper in the running community: a running poseur, donning the mantle for a single, unsensible-but-fashionable event, and then calling it quits. Thus, I needed to throw everything I had at this race and the limited training time I had allowed myself, so that I could achieve a result I would be proud of. My imaginary lifetime-checklist doesn’t merely have a yes/no check-box next to “Run a Marathon”. It also has a line for my finishing time. My worst fear was finishing with a disappointing time, because that might require me to abandon my one-and-done plan and invest in a whole new cycle of training. That fear of a new commitment ended up being my strongest motivator.

So in the second week of June, I began the 18-week Intermediate 1 training program. One important thing that drew me to the Intermediate 1 plan over the Novice 1 plan was the inclusion of runs at marathon pace. Since I had a time goal for the race (even if it was totally irrational), it seemed like a requirement to have time goals during training as well, otherwise it would be impossible to predict how I might fare in the race. My marathon pace (and thus, fastest training runs) would be 8:00 minutes per mile, which initially sounded pretty reasonable since my 10K-with-no-training had been at 7:12 pace.

For the first four weeks, I stuck with it pretty well, though I got slower as time went on; I quickly learned that running sub-8:00 pace may not be too hard when I was completely rested, but it was a whole different story when suddenly running five days a week. Week 4’s 11-mile long run produced my first injury (foot) 9 miles in. Over the next week I only ran a total of 8 miles, partly to let my foot rest up, but mostly because I did a duathlon (my first organized event since high school) and I switched over to training on my bike for that period. I finished in the top 30% in the duathlon, which was encouraging, because that’s where I’d need to be in the marathon to be in the ballpark of 3:30:00.

The next two weeks went fairly well, until Week 7’s 14 mile long run, which had to stop short of ten miles because my knee completely froze up. That had been happening for a few weeks, but this was the worst by far. That’s when I realized that two back-to-back tough runs on the weekend were more than my body was willing to handle, so I backed off to the Novice 2 plan. Novice 2 keeps the pace runs of Intermediate 1, but moves them from Saturday to Wednesday, giving an extra day of rest around the weekend long run.

Again, the next three weeks went fairly well, until week 10’s 17 mile long run, where my knee once again froze up after 14 miles. This was really starting to concern me, since everyone says how important the long run is to marathon training, and I’d now failed to complete three of them. But my self-diagnosis of IT Band injury seemed to be correct, and I finally came upon an effective self-treatment, so for the last eight weeks of training, I nailed every single run at the correct distance and pace, including two 20 milers.

Thus, as the end of training neared, I was pretty confident in my ability to cover the 26.2 miles, but I was seriously doubting my ability to do it anywhere near 8:00/mile pace. Sure, nearly every Wednesday morning I’d been doing a 5-to-8 mile run at that pace, but that always felt like it was right at the edge of my ability, and the idea of keeping up that pace for 26.2 seemed insane. The best I had done so far was a 13.1-mile training run in an accidental 1:45:00 (8:00/mile pace), inspired by the idea of beating a friend’s half-marathon time. I’m not much of a fan of organized events, but in retrospect, I should have done that one officially, because it would have qualified me for Start Corral C, ahead of all the slower people, which would have been a big help on race day. But the knowledge that I was good enough to be in a Start Corral was a huge confidence boost, at least until I remembered that a “half-marathon” is still only, well, half of a marathon.

I searched a lot of forums, looking for any evidence that my goal wasn’t insane. Everyone simply said “trust the taper”: the three weeks of decreasing mileage before the race would allow my body to rest up and make that 8:00/mile pace suddenly seem easy again. But I wanted data! Almost everything I do is very tech- and data-focused, and marathon training was no different. I used Google Earth to map and measure my training routes, did every run with my G1 Android phone in an armband, running GPS and BuddyRunner software to record pace and distance, and also using it to play music. I kept a log in a Google Spreadsheet, including distance, pace, weather, and occasional heart-rate info. So I was looking for race results from people who had trained similarly with a time goal in mind, to see how much I could really “trust the taper”. Unfortunately there wasn’t much data to be found, but I don’t know that I had any options besides “just go for it” anyhow.

Race day was freezing cold, about 36 degrees, so if I was forced into a second marathon, at least it wouldn’t have been because of the weather. The first 10K had me swerving around crowds of people to pass, so I started out a touch slow, but it was easy. A pace that nearly put me at my limits a few weeks before was just a comfortable cruise now. So yeah, the taper works, it’s kind of amazing. I pretty much hit my marks as closely as I could have hoped, and crossed the 20-mile-marker exactly on pace. After that, things started going a little less well. I began feeling a little worse, though I never felt like I hit a “wall”: it seemed like I was pretty much going through the same motions, but the clocks revealed that I was going slower and slower. Still, at that point I could do 10-minute miles and finish faster than 3:45:00, which would have made me plenty happy. Then as I turned onto the Roosevelt Rd. hill, I attacked it with a bit too much excitement, and my right hamstring cramped. I walked for a step and a half, briefly terrified that even 10-minute miles would be out of reach. But luckily I was able to get back to running, and soon reached the finish. Time: 3:35:30.

I was completely blown-out. It took me nearly 30 minutes to shuffle from the finish to the meet-up area, where I spent the next 30 minutes sitting on the ground trying to fight off hypothermia. And it couldn’t have been more perfect. If I had come away with anything left in the tank, it would have allowed a seed of doubt in, thinking that I could have done better, which is the last thing that I wanted. So even though it wasn’t 3:30:00, my time was still within 2.6% of the goal I had recklessly picked a year earlier. I’d say the training plan worked amazingly well; I would have had no chance at achieving that time if I had simply let things fall where they may. Setting an aggressive but sensible goal made me believe I might be able to go that fast, which is a hugely important part of actually going that fast. I was completely happy to write “3:35:30” on my checklist, and had absolutely no problem declaring my retirement from marathoning.

My Top 30 Albums of the 2000s

January 31st, 2010

I don’t think I’ve managed to make a "best of the year" list for any year this decade, but somehow I was able to put together a "best of the decade list". For no particular reason, I limited it to one album per band, and if everything else was equal, sided with the more "landmark" or "decade-defining" album.

The list ended up heavily skewed towards the beginning of the decade. That could be because I own a lot more music from that period, because that stuff has had more time to settle, or because there was simply better music. More stats in the wrapup.


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Amon Amarth – Versus the World (2002)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e-UbViuK4fY

For most bands that keep the exact same style from album to album, you figure by the time they get to their fourth album, they’re just going through the motions and putting out crappier versions of songs you’ve already heard. Instead, Amon Amarth defies the curse of the genre-band and crafts nine songs of deliberate melodic death metal that are exactly what you’d expect, but somehow, better in every way. More powerful ("Versus the World"), epic ("…and Soon the World Will Cease to Be"), and headbangingly-delicious ("Death in Fire"). Craftsmanship like this can make me think "genre" isn’t a bad word after all.


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Arcturus – The Sham Mirrors (2002)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QBzVeWgyrDw

Largely given up for dead after 1997’s "La Masquerade Infernale", Arcturus makes a sudden and unexpected return five years later. Just when we were thinking we’d never hear Garm doing metal again, or even singing at all, he bursts out with the most freewheeling performance of his career. "La Masquerade Infernale" was one of the defining albums of the previous decade; Sverd and his crew are prevented from repeating that feat in this decade because the style remains largely the same, but since no one else was creating this form of dark-space-prog-metal, much less at this level, it’s still a standout of the aughts.


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Blind Guardian – A Night at the Opera (2002)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ga-q0F7oWnU

A long wait, many delays, and a truckload of hype about how many layers were required to construct this album. But the hype was justified, as Blind Guardian produced an album unlike anything we’d heard before. Initially the layers of sound were overwhelming, but over time it began to feel more natural, and the songs revealed themselves. And it ends up being the songs that make this album great; the basic melodies, rhythms, and song structures are at least as innovative and unique as the sound wrapped around them. One of the most amazing features of the album is the constant, simultaneous coexistence of independent lead guitar and lead vocal melodies, a trick almost no other metal band has even attempted. So it’s this core that holds the gold; if you stripped away all the layers and orchestration, we’d still have an album 95% as good as the one we got.


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Chingon – Mexican Spaghetti Western (2004)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6I3tH6tUr8s

The album title promises something I didn’t even know I wanted so badly: a Latin take on Morricone-inspired spaghetti-Western soundtrack music. Perhaps only two of the songs fulfill that promise, but the rest of the album is even better. Birthed from the soundtracks to his films, Robert Rodriguez joins his searing electric guitar solos with the flamenco-inspired Latin rock from the band Del Castillo. Salma Hayek (who sings on one track) and Quentin Tarantino (who used a track in "Kill Bill") can’t be wrong. Pure rocking joy.


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Cursive – (2006)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TIx-_rW8_1Q

Once called an emo band, Cursive in 2006 made a brilliant record of angular prog-rock. With a horn section frequently blasting out and adding to the unsettling discord, each song still manages to be catchy-as-hell, and almost every one could stand on its own as a single (only one track breaks the 4 minute mark). But they’re also all linked together, wrapped with prologue and epilogue songs, telling vignettes from life in an unremarkable and undesirable mid-American town. With a special focus on religious hypocrisy, they’re the stories the Chamber of Commerce doesn’t want you to know about.


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Diabolical Masquerade – Death’s Design (2001)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z3axdI6BgFg

Blackheim’s (w/ Dan Swano!) three previous albums of melodic black metal were all very good (and amazingly different from his work in Katatonia), but despite various unique quirks, by and large they were fairly conventional. ‘Death’s Design’, in contrast, takes an entirely new approach to music composition. The 43 minute, 61-track album is a continuous piece of music, but it is divided into 20 "movements". Each movement is further divided into 1-5 "parts". This means that each part averages around 40 seconds, which is just enough time to get across one musical idea before moving on to the next one. The overall effect is as if 61 complete songs were originally written (or stolen), and then each one was whittled down to its core, removing all the boring repetitive stuff and simply keeping the best hook. It’s like getting 61 dollops of sour cream without having to eat any of the baked potato. But at the same time, the parts of each movement are thematically linked, even if they don’t quite form conventional "songs". And then the movements all flow together as an uninterrupted composition. Maybe it’s still ahead of its time, because nine years later I still don’t know of anyone who has done anything similar.


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Elvenking – Heathenreel (2001)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aqPWanJqrfY

A power-metal band with some folk influence releasing their debut album in 2001? It’s a genre that one would expect to have been long played out, but Elvenking is naive enough to think they can make a classic for the new decade, and partially because of that naivete, they do. In an era where templates and formulas were becoming increasingly important, Elvenking managed a production that’s almost amateur. It seems no one told them not to throw in those random death growls, no one told them not to hop from one idea to the next so recklessly, and no one told them their guitars didn’t have sufficient balls-n-chunk. So luckily, we ended up with this album brimming with life, spirit, and energy, and the exciting feeling that the whole thing could go flying off the rails at any second.


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Disillusion – Gloria (2006)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZeIYJD9J8s

If not for this album, 2004’s "Back to Times of Splendor" would have made it on this list. So to almost completely abandon that successful style and forge something entirely new was quite a risk. But it paid off, for with "Gloria", they created an even more decade-defining album than they had with BtToS. The album has a completely unfamiliar yet cohesive style, so the sound is clearly built out of a unique and well-defined vision, rather than by throwing random shit at the wall and seeing what sticks. Cold yet melodic, crushingly heavy yet danceable, with a pervasive East German paranoia. Their third album, if it ever comes, has been my most-anticipated release for four years now.


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Empyrium – Weiland (2002)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WL9X4dVTpsA

At first I thought ‘Weiland’ was merely an annoyingly-packaged 3-disc retread of ‘Where at Night the Wood Grouse Plays’, which itself was a copy of Ulver’s ‘Kveldssanger’. Acoustic evening songs that make you fear the forest that lies beyond the light of the campfire. Though the style is the same, in execution, it goes well beyond its inspirations. Using only acoustic instruments and few words, they’re able to generate the tension and terror of the most frightening and uncensored stories from the Brothers Grimm. But there is also wonder and beauty to be found. Technically, the night forest is only the inspiration for part 2. Part 1 is songs from the moor, and part 3 is the water spirits (evoked by addition of piano). But all envelop you in the feeling of being alone in the dark natural world. ‘Weiland’ is proof that mimicking can be but the first step in the student exceeding the master.


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Enslaved – Mardraum: Beyond the Within (2000)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5PfaVmyd3o

Enslaved did a whole lot of things right in this decade, but they did a lot of things right in the previous decade too. This is their nexus album. It currently sits right near the middle of their nearly 20-year career, and forms the crossroads of their stylistic evolution. ‘Mardraum’ is the only album which combines the cold, brittle, and decapitating black-metal guitar tones of their first decade with the psychedelic and prog leanings of their second decade. Really, the sound of the album is something truly special. There’s great sonic separation between the rumbling and pounding rhythm section and the penetrating guitars that ride atop, but both combine to create a mystical whirlwind of fury that’s somehow incredibly clear and well-defined. And the songs are pretty great too.


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Estradasphere – It’s Understood (2000)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yhtDOCoS9Ag

As the first 30 seconds of the first song on the first album from Estradasphere come whirling about you like a dervish, you instantly sit up and take notice. "This may be a band to be reckoned with!" This suspicion is strongly confirmed by fact that the tour-de-force continues for another 19 minutes, particularly as they effortlessly cross from gypsy music to bluegrass to straight jazz to lounge funk to death metal. Like a national tragedy (but better!), I still remember where I was when I first heard this. The rest of the album continues much the same, while adding additional oddities such as Nintendo music and new-age-ambient. This scattered approach means that some stuff hits the target better than others, but when they get the drums/bass/guitar/violin/saxophone rollicking along in synchrony, there are few bands than can touch them.


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Forgotten Silence – Kro Ni Ka (2006)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWOpYknpxRk

After their elaborate, layered, epic-prog-death masterpiece ‘Senyaan’, Forgotten Silence first peeled away the keyboards (on ‘Ka Ba Ach’), then most of the growled vocals and the the drums (on ‘Bya Bamahe Neem’, which answers the question "what does drumless death metal sound like?"). On ‘Kro Ni Ka’ the female vocals finally went by the wayside, but drums and keyboards returned in exchange. So we ended up with epic-length 4-piece instrumental prog-rock, yet another unpredicted twist in Forgotten Silence’s career. If I listened more to this kind of music, I’d know what 70s bands they’re ripping off and wouldn’t like it nearly as much, but my mind still associates it with the mystical Forgotten Silence magic.


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Gotan Project – La Revancha del Tango (2001)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TsgYPpFoASQ

‘La Revancha del Tango’ does such a beautiful job of mixing tango music and electronic rhythms that it seems a wonder we had to wait until 2001 for this merger to happen. Shouldn’t it have been obvious? A bunch of bands were quick to follow, and giving birth to a new subgenre always makes for good award-bait. Sultry, smoky, and sophisticated, this is an album that gave atmosphere to many a late night this decade.


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Green Carnation – Light of Day, Day of Darkness (2002)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6V4ECb6c8E

Tchort’s hour-long, single-song, epic-metal masterwork. It’s the most impressive execution of an artistic vision that I’ve ever seen. The only thing I’m aware of that’s on the same level is Peter Jackson’s film adaptation of "Lord of the Rings". For both, the resume was so thin, the goal was so high, the challenges were so great, and the opportunities for failure were myriad. So when they not only failed to fail, but actually succeeded so brilliantly, the success seems further magnified by the memory of the risks they overcame. If this was a ranked list, this album would probably be #1.


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In The Woods… – Live At The Caledonien Hall (2003)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9q_Vo-4yFdM

Maybe it’s cheating to include a live album on a list like this, but I’m doing it anyway. Because this is a pretty unique live album from a great band. Both band and audience knew that it was the final thing In the Woods… would do together, so it’s truly a document of a monumental event. They put together this special show where they played most of their discography, roughly in chronological order. With the four download-only tracks I added to my "special edition", it comes to nearly three hours of music, including their masterwork ‘Omnio’ played in its entirety. Most of the renditions are fairly similar to the studio versions (which is a feat in itself, given In the Woods…’s lush and textured sound), but it’s often these versions that I reach for now when I need my In the Woods… fix.


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Isis – Oceanic – (2002)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Qz8e7pgy_Y

This is another album where, if it gave birth to a new subgenre (post-metal, in this case), it must be pretty good. Even better, seven years later this album is still at the top of the heap. It sounds like it could be the finely-tuned end result of years of post-metal trial-and-error, rather than the first experiment. Sure, there were influences, but post-metal as we know it today was largely defined by this album. Everything about it, from the layered instrumental construction, to the expansive but propulsive song structures, to the loud but enveloping sound, came out fully-formed and just right.


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maudlin of the Well – Bath / Leaving Your Body Map (2001)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jX2oUNNDSfw

Ok, this is two albums, but they go together. I could write a pages-long description of this band’s sound (and I have!), talking about the wide range of musical styles, the bizarre changes, the variety of instrumentation, etc., but that wouldn’t tell you a thing about why these albums are on this list. To be sure, the style and the weirdness are one of the things I really like, and it’s what first drew me into the band. But to me, all that is just a means to an end. This is in stark contrast to a lot of other "kitchen sink" bands, who seem to throw in everything but the kitchen sink just because they’re able to. maudlin of the Well does it for a purpose. They are able to conjure up a very complex, very specific, yet very undefinable mood, feeling, and atmosphere, and communicate it all to the listener. Whether anyone else feels the same thing, or whether what I feel is anywhere near what the band intended, I have no idea. I also have no answer to the question of how the band was able to figure out the bizarre formula that would produce such an unexpected result. I could never reverse-engineer it in a million years.


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Mayhem – Grand Declaration of War (2000)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WE7rDwpQqG0

In the 90s, I never figured I’d like a Mayhem album, much less have one end up as one of my favorites of the 00s. But then, this isn’t really a Mayhem album; it’s a Rune Eriksen (Blasphemer) solo album, where he simply hijacked the Mayhem name for marketing purposes. Amazingly, it’s still black metal, even though it sounds very little like any type of black metal we’d ever heard before. The sonic mess of the original Mayhem is replaced with surgical, razor-sharp guitar playing, and Hellhammer’s clinical and martial V-drums. A completely new approach to coldness and grimness.


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Naervaer – Skiftninger (2000)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gj0lk0hIvhc

Kristiansand, Norway (pop. 80,000) must have the highest density of musical geniuses in the world. Tchort from Green Carnation, the mysterious Botteri twins from In the Woods…, and heck, throw in the Solefald guys too. And then we add Terje Sagen, the man behind Naervaer. To execute his vision of "pure mood music", he brings in a bunch of the In the Woods… crew to help out, most notably ItW vocalist Jan-Kenneth Transeth (ok, it’s his 3rd appearance on this list, add him to the musical geniuses too). It’s largely acoustic, sometimes there are "songs", sometimes it’s more soundscapes, though it’s too persistent to ever become "ambient". Whatever it takes to evoke a mood. I’ve loved it for nearly a decade now, but camping at night this year on the high desert plateau of the American Southwest, it blew my mind wide open.


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Nick Cave & the Bad Seeds – Abattoir Blues / The Lyre of Orpheus (2004)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMv2vm6D-9w

Nick Cave & the Bad Seeds spent the 90s getting softer and quieter, and then, improbably, spent the 00s getting harder and louder. On their way back up near the middle of the decade, for their 13th album, they produced this out-of-nowhere masterpiece. With some exceptions, ‘Abattoir Blues’ captures the loud and boisterous side, while ‘The Lyre of Orpheus’ covers the quiet and atmospheric side. However, neither side is a retread of past work; choirs and piles of instruments give either a power or a depth that the Bad Seeds had never reached before, but none of those additions have any chance of burying a re-lit Nick Cave, the not-exactly-religious preacher leading his carnival congregation.


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Novembre – Novembrine Waltz (2001)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcdJ36d-sCs

In the mid-90s, a band named Opeth released a couple of brilliant albums. The had invented a riff-less form of metal, led instead by intertwined melodic guitar leads, overlaid with a mix of clean and growled vocals. It was melodic death metal, without being Melodic Death Metal. The pace was more relaxed, the atmospheres deeper, and the journey more free-form. In short, it was genius. But by the end of that decade, Opeth had thrown that all away. Luckily, Novembre, a contemporary of Opeth’s from the early 90s, smoothly stepped in to take up the fallen mantle. From the Mediterranean rather than the Baltic, their sound is necessarily warmer and more Romantic than Opeth’s, and the songs more concise. An Opeth clone would not make this list, and Novembre is clearly not that; instead, they created an alternate vision from similar influences, and ‘Novembrine Waltz’ captures that emotional resonance I’d been waiting for.


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Orphaned Land – Mabool (2004)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lZUcWngEtcM

In 1994, as a small group of bands in Sweden were experimenting with a new sound that would come to be known as "melodic death metal", a band from Israel, Orphaned Land, had already invented their own regional version of the same on their debut record, ‘Sahara’. Two years later on ‘El Norra Alila’, they advanced that sound considerably and released perhaps the most complete synthesis of metal and local cultural influence ever put to tape. After such an auspicious and groundbreaking beginning, the expectations for their third album were unreasonably high from the start, and only grew as the years dragged on, to the point where ‘Mabool’, if ever released, would have no hope of matching them. But against all odds, it did. A whole new sound for the third time (smoother and more rounded, with an increased keyboard emphasis, and bigger hooks), but the core remains the same: "oriental" riffs and melodies on the guitars, seamlessly intertwined with local instrumentation, and the most explicit synthesis of the Abrahamic religions thus far, as the three are tied together with the myth of The Flood.


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Primordial – Spirit The Earth Aflame (2000)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKYj0WgMWms

Though drawing heavily from melodic black metal, Primordial’s overall sound is so unique and characteristic that they could almost be credited with creating a new subgenre themselves, if only other bands had the ability to follow them. It starts with the guitars, where instead of distinct metal riffs, we get a huge, swirling, droning sound full of harmonics playing off each other. Add Nemtheanga’s impassioned declarations, exhortations, and tribulations, and you have some of the most powerful and evocative "folk metal" you’ll ever hear, without ever needing a fiddle or tin whistle. Primordial had been creating this same music in previous decade, and continued throughout the 00s, but this album was the first that matched pain and suffering with the strength of iron and the blaze of fire.


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Secret Chiefs 3 – Book M (2001)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIcxmOdulmg

On ‘Book M’, Secret Chiefs 3 took a trip that started at the eastern edge of Europe, and pushed on towards The Orient, picking up musical ideas and instruments along the way. Back home in California, they fused the ancient sounds and melodies with the modern western world, augmenting them with dense electronics, unsettling glitchy rhythms, and metallic storms of distortion. You could call it folk metal if you wanted to, but make sure the person you’re talking to has an expansive mind, for it comes from a completely different pedigree than Skyclad or Orphaned Land.


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Sentenced – The Funeral Album (2005)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZMZYvlyw4E

After 15 years evolutionary life, Sentenced made a conscious decision to end it. However, unlike nearly every other band-breakup in the history of rock music, their end was marked not by an unceremonious press release or quiet fadeout, but by a carefully-planned funeral album. Though the melodic, radio-metal style is largely the same as the one they had finally settled on for their last few albums, it’s that external circumstance that makes this album incredibly unique. Always fascinated with topics of death and suicide, ‘The Funeral Album’ gives these topics the extra depth that can only come as a response to real life. It seems that the tendency would be to freeze up in the face of such self-consciousness, but somehow Sentenced turns it into an extraordinary advantage. Nowhere is this effect stronger than their final song, "End of the Road". Feeling the pressure to say something dramatic and meaningful for your final words would seem to lead to either an overwrought mess or complete denial of the situation, but instead, Miika Tenkula’s 2-minute mournful-but-uplifting guitar solo ends Sentenced’s life as perfectly as you could possibly imagine.


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Sólstafir – Masterpiece of Bitterness (2005)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IvsBilNQMIg

‘Masterpiece of Bitterness’ is an album that could only come from this decade. It needed to be preceded by the development of black metal and forays into the epic and experimental by metal bands of the 90s, and be of an era where it was even conceivable to synthesize those sounds with that of post-rock, psychedelic-rock, and even garage-rock. This diversity of influence allows an incredible dynamic range, even though the final synthesis is distilled to a simple and cohesive guitars/bass/drums sound, adorned only by the full-throated melodic screams. Opener "I Myself the Visionary Head" captures the full extent of that range, with its title and 20-minute length referencing the epic and pretentious, while the 15 minute repeated riff, led by a dirty and distorted bass guitar, references the rest. A unique vision discovered when I thought metal was running out of such things.


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The Dresden Dolls – The Dresden Dolls (2003)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3barCgWQpxA

Amanda Palmer is such a gifted singer/songwriter that she likely would have made it on her own, but when she found drummer Brian Viglione and they formed a duo and named it ‘The Dresden Dolls’, it basically guaranteed their success. Mostly dark and brooding, but with occasional bursts of pop sunniness, the range covered by piano, voice, and drums makes you wonder what other bands need all those instruments for. Lyrics are endlessly clever and shockingly personal, and cover an even greater emotional range than the music. From this DIY debut, to Roadrunner Records (who released the technically superior ‘Yes, Virginia’), to the red carpet at The Golden Globes, with lots of excellent live performances in between, The Dresden Dolls are probably my band-of-the-decade.


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The Gathering – Souvenirs (2003)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUGfIsUwIR4

In 1995, The Gathering released ‘Mandylion’, which invented female-fronted metal as we know it today. That’s worthy of a prize in itself, but by the end of that decade they had left that domain to their followers and created their second landmark album, the sprawling modern epic, ‘How to Measure a Planet?’ The uninspired, conventional follow-up (‘If_Then_Else’) led me to believe that two masterpieces was more than we really ought to expect out of a band anyhow, but then they shocked with ‘Souvenirs’. How can a former metal band release the darkest album of their entire career as their seventh album? The final track, a stunning duet between Anneke and Ulver’s Garm, seems obvious in retrospect, as ‘Souvenirs’ is a clear atmospheric relative to Ulver’s ‘Perdition City’: The Gathering’s trip-rock is still more conventional than Ulver’s ambiances, but both are music for the 3am streets of modern Europa.


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Thirdmoon – Sworn Enemy: Heaven (2004)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_toCk5RBL4w

Melodic death metal may have peaked in Sweden by the turn of the century, but in an unknown corner of Austria, Thirdmoon was just getting good. Sonically, they’re quite independent from Gothenburg or any other band, I think mostly due to their pummeling rhythmic density. It takes some excellent songwriting skill to integrate that level of heaviness without making it sound unnecessarily brutal, but Thirdmoon is up to the task. Occasionally incorporating acoustic guitars that play right along with blasting metal is another trick they use to add texture. Their previous two albums are also excellent, but ‘Sworn Enemy: Heaven’ has their most diverse stream of neverending hooks and riffs, all stitched together in a way that seems natural and not-at-all "prog". In fact, the sense of identity and focus from Wolfgang Rothbauer’s songwriting seems so strong, it feels as if Thirdmoon may have found their way here even if Sweden had never existed.


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Ulver – Perdition City (2002)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FWBkBx_DceA

This is Ulver’s fifth album, and the fifth complete re-invention of their sound. By now, you figure they must have some serious skills. The first three, you could dissemble and say they were all somehow related to "black metal", and then on their fourth, anyone has a chance of getting lucky when going whacked-out experimental. But ‘Perdition City’ proves that there’s a lot more than luck at work. Capturing the atmosphere of a dark forest at night and turning it into sound (on ‘Kveldssanger’) was impressive enough, a feat that would cause most bands to either rest on their laurels or retire immediately. But for the same band to invert that feat four years later, capturing a cold city as sound, the atmospheric opposite of the natural forest, seems almost impossible. To be fair, Kristoffer ‘Garm’ Rygg was the only common link between the two efforts, so maybe he’s simply a good manager of the musical talent of others, rather than a musical genius himself. But given that this is his third appearance on this list (tying Mista Transit), I’m thinking a ‘musical genius’ tag might be well-deserved.

Tour Day 28: Kearny, AZ to Tucson, AZ

May 23rd, 2009

84.16 mi / 6:02:56 time / 13.9 mph avg. / 28.0 mph max. / 3156 ft. climbing
Staying at Radisson Suites

All through the night, cars would come down the campground road and go to the picnic area/boat launch parking area, turn around, and drive back out. What were they looking for? A make-out session? Their drug dealer? Some midnight fishing? Luckily none of them ever arrived simultaneously (or waited around), so no party ever got started.

I was woken up around 3am with, you guessed it, rain hitting my face. So I had to close the door on my rainfly which I had hopefully left open. It had stopped by the time I woke up for real at 4:40am, but it started drizzling again as I was taking down the tent, making for yet another day of wet gear in my bags.

Then I had rain continuing for the first 15 miles of the ride. It was warm enough (upper 60s) that I skipped the rain gear and just let my clothes get soaked through (yet again). Either way my clothes would be soaked, the only question is whether they’re wet from the rain or wet from my sweat. Neither is at all pleasant, but skipping the jacket at least allows the possibility or drying out faster as soon as the rain lets up.

When I was around Flagstaff, I remember specifically thinking “the weather has been even nicer than I expected; I was predicting about 3 days with some rain for the whole trip, and we’ve only had one. And surely there won’t be any more chance of rain now that I’m headed down to the real desert!” I never would have guessed I’d then get four straight days of rain. I think the knowledge that this was the last day of the trip was the only thing keeping me from getting really pissed off. To all the drivers, the rain and cool temperatures were awesome fun and great relief from the record temperatures they’d recently had in Phoenix (14 days of 100 degrees in a row). But it’s a different story when you never feel any of that heat, and the rain seems to be following you everywhere you go.

I stopped in Mammoth and got a premium gas-station breakfast, with a hot breakfast burrito and hot breakfast sandwich. Fancy. Then I had the final hill to climb, 2000 ft. over 10 miles, so relatively easy, but long. Luckily the rain was reduced to minor sprinkles by this point. At the top of the hill was supposedly the town of Oracle. But like many of the towns in this area, it’s oddly built off of the highway (or more likely, the highway was built around it?) so if they didn’t have road signs pointing to it, you wouldn’t even notice it’s there. That’s especially weird in this case, because for the next 40 miles into Tucson, the highway is known as “Oracle Rd.”, and the Tucson suburbs have all sorts of references (“Oracle Mall”, etc.) to this town that is nearly invisible. I also passed by Biosphere 2, but unfortunately it’s not visible from the road.

After cresting the final summit, I was able to complete the trip with a nice long downhill into Tucson. I had sprinkles as late as Oro Valley, 20 miles out of TUcson’s center, but after that, the sun appeared in earnest. I was relieved to know that I hadn’t actually been dragging the rain along with me all the way into Tucson, even though it definitely had felt that way. I would have felt pretty bad if I had rained out the wedding!

Tucson is very bike-friendly, with the first bike lane briefly appearing some 30 miles out of town. Then there was a section of construction, which could have been nearly as bad as that section of US-60, but they had a lot of signs about sharing the road and all of the drivers were quite courteous, so it was far more comfortable. I saw a bunch of people out on their Saturday morning road rides, and unfortunately I couldn’t reel any of them in. 🙁 Tucson and its suburbs ended up being a lot bigger than I expected, with residential and commercial development starting 20 miles out on Oracle Rd. and continuing the whole way in.

I rolled up to the final stop, the Radisson Suites, around 1pm. But the challenges weren’t over. Now I had to gain access to my hotel room without credit card or ID. I was first met with outright refusal, even though I had already paid for the room, and there was really no doubt of my identity. What needed to be overcome was mindless, inflexible adherence to corporate policy. After 30 minutes of hemming and hawing and fear of losing her job, the manager-on-duty (really the housekeeping manager) finally told me to take my bike around to the back of the hotel and meet her there by the laundry and dumpsters. After having a smoke to calm her nerves, she said “Ok, I’ll let you in a room”. Woo hoo! I didn’t officially check in or get any keys, so I would be stuck there, but at least I could take my first shower in a week (which maybe was the final tipping point for the manager, I bet she was getting sick of my stinking up her lobby!)

Once inside, I gave my aunt a call to ask if they could help out whenever they returned from the rehearsal lunch by putting down their credit card. I spent some time greatly enjoying my specialized gift bag, which included a cute mini-pack of King’s Hawaiian Bread (lasted about 3 minutes), a big bag of high-calorie trail mix (lasted a little longer) and a couple of great beers (lasted until they got cold enough in the freezer). After a long shower, I met my uncle, got checked in for real, and finally I was finished and free!

It actually wasn’t too much longer afterwords that my parents arrived from the drive down to Phoenix. It was hard to decide what was the best: seeing them for the first time in six weeks, receiving the extensive packet of supplemental ID (up to and including my college ID card!) that would let me fly home, or receiving the batch of awesome polka-dot cookies!

Tour Day 27: Roosevelt, AZ to Kearny, AZ

May 22nd, 2009

72.41 mi / 6:25:22 time / 11.2 mph avg. / 41.0 mph max. / 5428 ft. climbing
Staying at Kearny Lake Campground

The rain continued on and off throughout the night, with some inconsiderate fool leaving the spigot in the “on” position when I awoke in the morning. At least my gamble to skip the tent again and sleep on the picnic table had paid off. The wind never picked up through the night, so the overhead canopy and some strategic positioning was enough to keep me from getting wet. And then packing up camp was much cleaner, drier, and easier, since I didn’t have to figure out how to collapse a wet tent in the rain. Still, it took me a while to get packed up, because I spent a lot of time just sitting on the table, staring at the rain in glum disbelief.

I’ve read bike tour journals where people talk about an afternoon shower that will pass by, wet them down for 20 minutes, cool them off, and then the sun will be back out to dry them off. I’ve now done over 100 days of bike touring, and that has never happened to me. It seems like for me, when it rains, it rains for three days straight, at least.

Eventually I strapped on the rain gear and headed out into it. It mostly stopped after about 10 miles, but I still ended up soaked because I had to climb a 2500 ft. hill in my rain gear, which makes you sweat just a bit. After the top of the hill, I turned west onto US-60, and hit the decaying mining town of Miami. I did get an awesome breakfast burrito at a popular burrito stand there though.

Then I had to go up and down another 1500 ft. worth of hill over an 18 mile stretch of the fast and busy US-60, a test I wouldn’t wish on my worst enemy. It would have been difficult under normal conditions, but adding four miles of construction at the final stretch to the summit made it one of the most hair-raising and stressful rides I’ve ever done. I had to pull out every trick I knew, including off-roading, riding on the shoulder on the wrong side of the road, pulling off to let barrelling trucks pass, or simply gunning it over short stretches to get to the next safe spot. The only thing I had gong in my favor was that it wasn’t raining.

Until I crested the summit, and then the rain started to fall again. Ah, noon in Arizona on Memorial Day weekend, and it’s 59 degrees and I’m soaking wet. Even though there was no construction on the downhill, it was still difficult because whenever a passing lane would appear in the oncoming direction, it would eliminate the shoulder on my side. And the road was so busy and full of trucks that there would always be a line of cars jumping into the oncoming passing lane, giving no chance for vehicles on my side to slide around me. I’ve seen people debate the use of a rear-view mirror for bike touring, which makes no sense to me. At least on a road like this, there is no debate: without my mirror, my chances of making it through alive would have been rather small.

Despite all that, there were a couple moments where I could see through the raindrops on my glasses that I was descending through a rather spectacular canyon. If it wasn’t raining, if my life wasn’t hanging in the balance, and if I hadn’t just been through some of the most awe-inspiring canyons in the world over the last few weeks, I might have snapped a photo or two.

At one point, I went through a tunnel, and when I came out the other end, the sun was shining! Soon after, I eagerly turned off the US-60 nightmare onto the much more pleasant AZ-77. I even stopped and optimistically took off my rain jacket, which might give the rest of my clothes a chance to dry out. I cursed myself for an idiot when it started dripping again 10 minutes later, but it soon stopped, and didn’t start again for the rest of the day. Hooray!

I had one more hill to climb, and although this was the shortest of the three, it was shockingly steep, with over a mile of steady 10% grade. I gave a big holler at the top, /because although I have one more good hill to climb tomorrow, this was the final real beast on a trip that has laid out many for me to conquer. RARGH!!

On the descent, I passed the Ray Copper mine, which is an incomprehensibly huge hole in the ground. Seeing the enormous mining equipment standing out as specks on the high ledges makes made me want to compare what such trucks would look like if they were crawling the walls of the Grand Canyon. Ok, so maybe we could do a computer simulation of that one rather than using the real thing.

When I pulled into the nice-but-slightly-unsettling pre-planned town of Kearny (planned by the mining company, presumably) I considered the motel, and even checked the rate ($62). I was so sick of rain and the threat of rain that I wasn’t sure I wanted to camp out. But before making my decision, I went over to the pizza joint and polished off an entire Medium pie. I spent enough time there to see that the skies were clearing up pretty nicely, so that gave me more confidence for camping. I talked to a guy wearing a RAGBRAI shirt, and inquired about camping at the next town 10 miles down the road (it wasn’t yet 4pm), but he said I’d have “less trouble” here in Kearny. Ok, so I took his advice.

The free campground (it seems like I’ve paid very little for camping the last week) is just outside the edge of town, and there isn’t another soul here. There are mountains in every direction, being lit and shaded by the dappled sunlight poking through the scattered clouds. There is no shelter or shade, so it would be brutal here under normal conditions, but when it’s only 75 degrees, it’s beautiful. Running water, flush toilets, and amazingly flat and well-groomed sites. I took a stroll around the small lake just above the campground, which attracts a lot of birds as well as townfolk getting their evening exercise.

Even though the rain and cold over the last few days has been rather annoying and not at all what I was expecting, I have to wonder if sun and heat would be worse. Since the ultimate (75 degrees and clear skies) is probably impossible, maybe I’d take the rain if given the choice. Either way, I’ve been very impressed with this part of the state; the combination of topography and vegetation are like nothing I’ve seen before and quite unexpected. And all the clouds hanging between the mountain slopes probably made it even more dramatic. Now let’s just hope that 10% chance of showers and thunderstorms doesn’t come to pass!

Tour Day 26: Clints Well, AZ to Roosevelt, AZ

May 21st, 2009

90.87 mi / 6:39:22 time / 13.6 mph avg. / 39.0 mph max. / 3403 ft. climbing
Staying at Windy Hill Point National Forest Campground

I awoke at dawn, though there wasn’t much dawn to see, since the skies were still completely overcast. It hadn’t rained at all through the night, but the morning clouds were looking pretty ominous, so I hurried to pack up the tent and get on the road. Regardless of the condition of the gravel road, I definitely didn’t want to be riding it while it was actively raining.

Luckily, the road was in pretty good shape. I think I was even moving along a little quicker, maybe because the rain had smoothed things out, or because I was building on yesterday’s experience, or, because there was a grader out there actively smoothing the surface! So I covered the seven miles in seventy minutes, without getting a drop of rain. Phew, disaster averted.

Then it was time to descend the big hill off the Mogollon Rim. The layers of hills made it feel a lot like descending in the Appalachians. Halfway down was Payson, a town so big (Home Depot! Chili’s!) that it would have made my head spin, had my head not already been unscrewed right off my neck by Flagstaff. I stopped at the Knotty Pine Cafe for yet another 3rd-breakfast and did a bunch of Internet stuff. I checked the radar and saw a squall heading southwest, so I hurried on out of there, hoping to beat the rain down the hill.

And I did beat it, with only a light drizzle getting me slightly wet. But then, another cell came through an absolutely nailed me. A complete downpour, perhaps even with small bits of face-stinging hail. It was nearly impossible to ride in, and luckily a highway rest area appeared at the junction of AZ-87 and AZ-188. For some stupid reason it was closed, but I could see just well enough to skirt past the gates and take shelter. There I waited out the storm for about half an hour, and read all the educational signs. I learned that this elevation (the Upper Sonoran Desert) receives 10-15 inches of rain per year; I think I just had 1 of them dumped on me.

Once it lightened up to a mild drizzle, I headed out again down the much more rideable AZ-188 to Roosevelt Lake (AZ-87 had turned into a divided superhighway, not a lot of fun to ride in the best conditions, much less a rainstorm). I had dropped 5000 ft. from my morning start, which would normally mean it would be about 20 degrees warmer. Instead, the temperature was exactly the same: 65 degrees. So there I am, wearing three layers, including a long-sleeved turtleneck and a jacket, riding in the rain. I pass my first giant Saguaro cactus, symbol of the Arizona desert, and I’m shivering. Insanity.

For the entire afternoon, the rain continued. Never again heavy, but always there. I was dreading camp (setting up a slightly wet tent, in the rain, when my clothes are wet) until I remembered that this was technically the desert, and all campsites should have canopies for sun protection. Ha, I bet they never thought they’d be used for rain protection! The ranger at the Tonto Basin station confirmed this, and that the campground was only 3 miles farther. When I inquired about groceries, she said the next store was 8 miles on, adding in a patronizing tone “You’re in a very remote area here.” Ha. I just passed three towns in the last 30 miles, lady. I’ve been in far more remote areas than this. Still, I had been expecting to be able to stock up on groceries before camp, so maybe she was right. Actually it turned out to be a blessing in disguise, because it forced me to eat all the various odds and ends that I would be needing to get rid of soon anyway.

The campground is pretty nice, or as nice as a campground with a ridiculous 346 sites can be. They have an odd payment system here, where you have to buy a “Tonto Pass” at various stores or the ranger station in order to camp, but there is no specific campsite registration. The ranger told me that since I don’t have a vehicle, I don’t have to pay at all. Sweet. They even have free showers, but I think I got enough of a shower today already.

I did dry off and change into some dry clothes, at which point the drizzle finally stopped. That gave me a chance to actually look around and see that the whole area is really quite beautiful. The lake is very large, and again, there are layers of hills and mountains on either side of it. There is a lot of vegetation, and quite a variety of it (including those Saguaros), and something flowering here gives off a really pleasant smell. Across the lake there are low clouds or fog hanging between the mountains, and the skies are still heavy with clouds.

Is this really Arizona? The entire day has felt more like Portland, and a pretty nasty day in Portland at that. Did I make a wrong turn somewhere? I have to laugh at all the concern (from myself, my mom, everyone I talked to on the road) about how I would handle the heat and dryness once I descended to the desert. Instead, it was one of the coldest days of the trip, with the temperature never getting about 65, and easily the wettest. It just goes to show that whenever I think I have this bike touring thing totally mastered, Mother Nature can humble me with a flick of her wrist. Which is probably a good thing.

I just hope this system moves on out of here before Sunday. I’m built to handle this sort of junk out on the road, but Stephanie and Ryan would surely prefer to have some sunlight at their wedding, and maybe even temperatures that reach 70 degrees!

Tour Day 25: Flagstaff, AZ to Clints Well, AZ

May 20th, 2009

58.40 mi / 5:20:44 time / 10.9 mph avg. / 38.0 mph max. / 3502 ft. climbing
Staying at Kehl Springs National Forest Campground

Today would be the first fairly easy day in a while, so I didn’t even wake up until after sunrise! The day would consist of more riding in this high forested lake country, because I wanted to spend one more night up at altitude before dropping down to the heat. Most of the day was spent hovering around 7000 ft., though there was still plenty of up-and-down.

The first services were 40 miles in, at Clints Well (no apostrophe, just like Lees Ferry; Arizona needs to hire some grammer mavens in addition to altitude/mileage sticklers!) At the cafe where I had a patty melt lunch, a couple there said to me “don’t let anyone know about this place!” To them, the whole area was paradise, and it’s true, it seems relatively unknown and untouched, especially considering that it isn’t too far from Flagstaff and Phoenix. It seems like most people didn’t know what I was referring to whenever I told them that I was going to stay up at altitude northeast of Phoenix. Maybe because it is so undeveloped, that makes people lose interest.

That couple also mentioned that last Memorial Day, it snowed 6 inches up here! So good thing I wasn’t here last year. However,the temperatures hovered around 65 for the entire day, and it was overcast, so it actually felt quite cool even this year. Around lunchtime it even started spitting drops of rain.

My original plan had me staying at the campground at Clints Well, but since I had plenty of time, I figured I would have a little adventure, heading 9 miles south to the edge of the Mogollon Rim, and then 7 miles east along a gravel forest road to a campground right on the rim. The Mogollon Rim is the southwestern edge of the Colorado Plateau, upon which I had spent the entire trip. The edge drops down 2000 ft. to the Sonoran Desert, marking the final time I’ll be at high altitude. When you fly into Phoenix from the northwest, you can actually see the Rim, recognizable as a forested area, followed by a cliff, and then no trees below.

Riding the gravel road was kind of like riding through Flagstaff; there was so much to focus on (rocks, ruts, washboard) that the miles went by relatively quickly, even though I rarely got above 6 mph, and did many sections at 3 mph. But arrival at the campground was a huge disappointment. The web page led me to believe that the campground was right on the rim, with views off the edge down to the lights of Payson 15 miles away. Instead, it was simply in the middle of the forest, with the rim nowhere in sight. It was a pleasant place, but I could have found a site of my own just like it without spending an hour and a half on gravel! I did get a brief view at one point along the road, but I should have realized that I’ve been at the edge of five 2000+ ft cliffs this trip (Colorado National Monument, Dead Horse Point, Bryce, Zion, and Grand Canyons), and the Mogollon Rim can’t really compare.

Oh well, it was free, and there was no point in going back now, so I set up my tent. No sooner did I finish that than the rain began in earnest, and just like a couple days ago in Cameron, I spent the afternoon hours huddled in my tent hiding from weather. The only other campers in the site (the host?) came by and offered fried-chicken dinner, but just about then it finally let up, and I managed to create some Middle-Eastern/Mexican Fusion: couscous with Taco Bell seasoning, jalapenos, and string cheese, stuffed in pita bread. Yum!

The fact that it rained all afternoon wasn’t a big deal because I didn’t have any other plans (I’m on my 3rd issue of The Economist!), but as I went to sleep, my main concern was the ride out tomorrow: would it be a ride, or would I have to slog through 7 miles of mud?

New Pictures

May 19th, 2009

Grand Canyon and more!